Sunday, December 7, 2008

To Taca


Two weeks ago we finally started with some more field work. We contracted a local NGO to help us do a Participative Rural Diagnostic in the areas where we are going to implement the project. Last week we worked in Taca, in the south west of Gambos municipality. Taca is ratgher isolated. For those who would like to go there too, here are the directions: Travel to the end of the world. When you get there, continue on due east. Turn south at the first baobab you see and then ask the people you meet for directions. Alternatively, use Google earth and zoom in on the coordinates 13°34‘ East and 17°57“ South.

Taca village consists of an unmanned healthpost, a police station in a derelict house left by the Portuguese, a borehole and a very small store that only sells cheap booze. We set up camp next to the health post. From Taca village, we went to visit the remoter parts of the community of Taca. The people we met live mostly from livestock. They occasionally exchange a cow, goat or chicken for salt, cereals and soap. Since we did not bring salt, cereals or soap, we had some difficultulties buying chickens or goats for our meals. The first two days we ate tinned fish and salted fish. The third day we met a traveling salesman from Lubango who had traded salt and soap for chickens and we bought chickens from him.

The traveling salesmen that visit the area are both a blessing and a curse. They bring much needed cereals, etc, but since there is a great demand for meat in cities like Lubango and Luanda, salesmen offer high prices for cattle. This increasing demand has promoted cattle raiding in the area. Raiding cattle was always part of rural life in Taca, but it used to be nephews stealing a few head of cattle from their uncle to pay the bride price and start of their own herd. Since the nephews would inherit those animals anyway, and since they used to visit their uncle a few days later to offer gifts, this was viewed as an advance of the inheritage rather than theft. But nowadays, some youngsters steal the cattle from whoever they can and sell them to the travelling salesmen for money or booze. Some even go as far as Chibia to sell the stolen animals and buy food, luxury items and booze.

The few thiefs that have been caught and sent to the police, are usually back within a few days because the law regarding cattle theft is based on the old customs and therfore views cattle raiding as an internal family issue and not as theft. Frustrated cattle owners are now threathening to take the law in their own hands and the punishments they intend to meet out are very harsh (gouging out eyes or cutting off a foot). For the time being things will probably not get that far, and we are looking at ways to help change this situation. One solution suggested by the people themselves was to set up a local trade post that would buy cattle. That way, people can control who is selling what.

Water and pasture are the main focus of our project and the lack of water was usually mentioned as the main problem (just before cattle raiding). We have identifed several activities we can develop in the near future to help improve this situation. There is an old dam, built in 1968 that can easily be repaired with relatively little means. Furthermore, a concrete 1 million litre water storage was built, but that also leaks and can also be repaired with relatively little means. Not only are the repairs fairly cheap, they are also simple, so we can involve the communities in the work and hopefully train them to do future repairs themselves.
For those who do not know me: The guy with the chunky black wrist watch is me.